Few brands strike the balance between traditionalism and modernity with as much poise as Laurent Ferrier. On the wrist the watches look contemporary, while still appealing to those with a respect for time-tested things. This new watch takes a niche idea from the 19th century and brings it into the 21st century in a way that feels extremely relatable and fresh.
The Galet Regulateur is the first regulator wristwatch from Laurent Ferrier men’s watches. As you may or may not know, regulators use separate axes for the hour and minute hands, in this case with the minutes centralized and the hours in a sub-dial at 12 o’clock. There is also a running seconds sub-dial at six o’clock, though that’s a much more common sight. The idea with a regulator is to separate the hours and minutes for increased legibility and precision, and regulator clocks were traditionally used by watchmakers to set their watches and by scientists for taking important measurements.
This watch starts with the new Montre École case, which was introduced back in January at SIHH as a simple three-hand watch. It is available in both stainless steel and white gold and is 40mm in diameter and 10.95mm thick. The dial is the same for both versions, with a silver-tone ground with a vertical brushed finish and snailed sub-dials that have a slightly warmer nickel finish. There are lots of little details too – the hour register has slim Roman numerals and the dark grey chapter ring has blue Arabic numerals at 15, 30, 45, and 60, for example. The matching bright blue Regulateur signature and Laurent Ferrier logo balance out the negative space on the dial too, keeping it from looking too sparse.
While Laurent Ferrier has not provided any photos of the movement (and we sadly haven’t had a chance to see one of these in the metal yet), inside is the FBN Caliber 228.01. This is an automatic movement wound with one of Ferrier’s outstanding micro-rotors (probably the best one on the planet, if I’m being honest) and a silicon escapement. The movement has 189 total components, 35 of which are jewels, and it has a 72-hour power reserve. As you’d expect, finish should be outstanding, with large Côtes de Genève on the main bridges and circular gaining on the mainplate, plus all the hand-beveling, mirror polishing, and graining you could ask for.